Tuesday 7/6/11 - we had a bit of trouble sleeping last night because 'things' kept being dropped onto the caravan. No idea who or what but we suspect a possum or similar. We walked down to the river (South Alligator) but the only access is at the boat launch area and we couldn't see much. The water levels are clearly much higher than is normal in the Dry season. It is quite a warm day and pretty hot in the caravan. We sat outside for a short time but the mozzies attacked so had to go back inside again.
In my last blog I mentioned we were booked in to do the Yellow Water sunset cruise - what a fabulous cruise that was! I took over 400 photos. We saw crocodiles, jabirus, whistling ducks, 3 sizes of egrets, cranes, and a whole lot of other birds (names I cannot remember), 3 wild horses and a vast and beautiful wetland area. The high water mark on the trees was at least 3m higher than currently and the water was dropping at the rate of 11cm per day, although it has slowed considerably now. On the cruise we were told about the devastating effect of cane toads on wildlife in Kakadu and later that night, back at the caravan, we commented that neither of us had seen one in real life. Later that night when Royce went outside to empty the liquid from a can something moved. He came in and got the torch and we went outside and the place was littered with cane toads! Ugly looking things they are.
Wednesday 8/6/11 - it was foggy when we awoke this morning. We were visited this morning at the camp site by a couple of blue winged kookaburras. We went to the Warradjan (Warr-ar-jarn) Aboriginal Cultural Centrre this morning, which was very interesting. We then climbed to the Mirrai Lookout (about 22km north of Mardugal campsite). It was a very steep climb and it was very hot. There wasn't much of a view because of the trees. We then went onto the Nourlangie Region. All the walks at Muirella Park were closed. The walk around and through Nourlangie was great - rock paintings, escarpment, lookout. We spent quite a bit of time here. We then drove to Arnbangbang (Arn-barng-barng) billabong to have a look. The walk was closed but we could drive part way around it. We saw a dingo casually saunter across the grasses next to the billabong but it was gone before I could get the camera out. We then drove to have a look at Jim Jim Billabong and on the way a very large crane like bird sauntered across the road in front of us. I got a photo and we were told by the staff at the Bowali Visitor Centre on Thursday that it was a Brolga.
Thursday 9/6/11 Very hot and muggy today. We packed up and headed towards the East Alligator Region. On the way we stopped at the Bowali Visitor Centre which was very interesting. Leaving there and on the way to Jabiru we saw a couple of dingoes in the grasses at the side of the road. We also saw a Jabiru flying! We stopped at Jabiru to pick up a couple of supplies (bread, butter) and nearly fell over at the prices. Everything was at least double what you would pay elsewhere! We set up camp at Merl, initially in the No Generator zone but when we went looking for the toilets we discovered a Generator zone so we packed up and relocated. I went to the toilets and as soon as I sat down the mozzies swarmed - the worst they have been - so I decided I wouldn't be using those toilets or showers while we stayed there. We had a couple of sulphur crest cockatoos sitting in the tree above our caravan dropping things onto the caravan most of the afternoon and night! We spent the rest of the afternoon trying to keep cool, wiping up the sweat, and reading.
Friday 10/6/11 Neither of us slept well last night. There was a lot of noise though the night from some sort of bird (we think) and things dropping onto the caravan! It was also pretty hot and uncomfortable. We decided to do the Bardedjilidji (Bar-de-jill-eed-gee) walk but we inadvertently started at the wrong end and part way through the walk we came across a sign which indicated the section we had done was closed! That section did go pretty close to the East Alligator River and between the river and some smaller water holes. We did see a small crocodile (freshie?) in one of the water holes. This walk takes you through layered sandstone outliers and was an amazing walk. It felt like you were entering The Land Before Time at one part of it. There was aboriginal rock art and some really amazing rock formations. We then drove to Cahill's Crossing and saw a couple of Whistling Kites and their nest and several small fish. Someone was standing out on the crossing fishing - notwithstanding this has been the site of at least one fatal croc attack in the past and crocs do inhabit the area. We went to the Border Store and had some lunch. We then went on to Ubirr (Oo-beer) and walked around looking at fabulous aboriginal rock art, amazing rock formations and then climbed to the top to watch the sunset. From the top you can see a very large flood plain which is so vast you cannot imagine it, and then to watch the sunset from there is indescribable!
Saturday 11/6/11 There was a bit of a cool breeze this morning and it is not quite as hot as the last couple of days. Not as humid either. We did the Guluyambi boat cruise this morning. This is apparently the only one owned and run by Aboriginals. Our cruise captain was Terry and he explained some traditional things like how they make their paintbrushes, how they make rafts and a number of other things that were really interesting. The East Alligator River is the border between Kakadu and Arnhem Land and people wishing to visit Arnhem Land must have a permit. We were allowed to land on Arnhem Land where we were shown some traditional Aboriginal weapons and were given a demonstration of spear throwing using a woomera. Our guides explained tribal law - the wrong-doer is surrounded by 10 men who spear his lower leg. The spears are barbed and can only come out one way. The spear goes through the calf. The wrong-doer then cuts off the wooden shaft and leaves the barbed head in place for a month. He then cuts the leg at both ends of the spear head and pulls it out! This is the first and only warning. Tribal law says that repeat offence results in the same actions but the spears go through the chest!
Sunday 12/6/11 A much cooler morning and a bit breezy. Hardly any mozzies around! We packed up and left the East Alligator Region heading towards Darwin. We saw a large flock of black cockatoos, a very large flock of white cockatoos and one water buffalo (on the side of the road). We crossed the South Alligator River at one point and what a massive river it is. The outgoing tide was running and it was very strong and fast. This was about 80km from the mouth of the river. Otherwise it was a pretty uneventful drive and we ended up at the Big 4 Caravan Park at Howard Springs. We spent the afternoon getting our washing done and meeting our neighbours. I spent most of the night getting the photos onto the computer and resizing them. Still have to properly label and sort yet.
Monday 13/6/11 We enjoyed a really loooong shower this morning. We found a shopping centre and got our shopping done, chatted with Rory, Emma and Marshall and had some lunch. I will finish the blog here and will separately post photos shortly. I have so many photos it is really hard to work out which ones to put on the blog but hopefully the ones I do put on will give you some idea of what I have talked about in this and my previous blog.
Boh Boh (see you next time)
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